Food and wine are so inextricably linked that the philosophy of Waterkloof in Somerset West makes perfect sense. Not only do they produce wines with a subtlety and depth seldom associated with New World wines, but they serve haute cuisine of the highest quality, from a restaurant with a view over False Bay that is unmatched.
Waterkloof, set on the slopes of Schaapenberg, was born in 2005 after a 10-year search by Paul Boutinot for a site which he thought encompassed his dream.
As he says, "the desire to make truly fine wine can only be fulfilled when you have a great terroir. If you do not have the site, forget it, you will simply die withered and frustrated by man's limitations against the might of nature".
An Englishman of French origin, unwilling to follow in his family's footsteps and enter the restaurant business, he instead set up a successful wine import business aimed at supplying restaurants.
On the basis of this background, he is "not the archetypal foreign-based lifestyle investor, but rather a hands-on dedicated entrepreneur-cum-winemaker", who aims to create "truly fine wines".
This philosophy is shared with viticulturist and winemaker Werner Engelbrecht, who is responsible for both the vineyard management and for the winemaking. His attitude to life is reflected in his winemaking: "keep it simple and uncomplicated, interfere as little as possible with natural processes, and enjoy it".
Unlike many winemakers, Engelbrecht sees himself not as the creator, but merely "the facilitator". He views his job as "to guide the natural process, the development, thus allowing the wine to make itself".
The methods therefore employed are in keeping with traditional winemaking methods, the idea of "slow wine".
While modern practices would normally take up to 20 days for white wines inoculated with enzymes and using cultured yeasts, at Waterkloof this can take anything up to 11 months, using an almost hands-off approach.
Red wines are made with open-top fermenters, allowing wild yeast fermentation to take place. Whole-bunch pressing is used, forcing Waterkloof to be more discerning about fruit quality. Where possible, gravity is utilised.
On top of this, they farm sustainably, and their wine is made using biodynamic methods "to conserve biodiversity" and, for example, use horses to till the fields.
However, this isn't merely a spiel intended to set Waterkloof apart from other vineyards, it is something that Engelbrecht believes is integral to making the best quality wine possible - the end-product, not the process, being important.
Waterkloof offers three ranges, the Peacock Ridge, Circumstance, and Waterkloof.
Thanks to his French background, Boutinot is also passionate that food and wine should complement each other. His wine is now featured on the wine list of Gordon Ramsay's signature restaurant, Royal Hospital Road in London.
On top of this, thanks to the head chef, Frenchman Gregory Czarnecki who boasts years of experience in some of France's top Michelin-starred venues, the restaurant at Waterkloof is simply stunning.
Housed in a 10-metre-high glass promontory, with spectacular vistas of both the mountains and False Bay, which flows seamlessly into the tasting area with its state-of-the-art gravitational cellar, the restaurant serves modern, elegant yet unpretentious French cuisine.
Starters such as blancmange of king-klip with honey-peppered vinaigrette, oyster mushrooms with rocket and crispy soft boiled egg, and asparagus risotto with Parmesan foam show flawless technique and a keen understanding of flavours.
Main courses such as springbok loin with eggplant caviar, roasted aubergine jus and masala cream; glazed pork belly with honey-roasted butternut, cranberries and feta, or oven-roasted yellowtail on lentils and lamb jus, with a chorizo and confit onion, pack big flavours, while still retaining elegance and finesse.
Puddings, for example the chocolate ganache, brownie and crème brulee with pecan nut ice-cream, show a sense of fun, while the cheese platter has been carefully chosen from locally made produce.
The building and the conceptual artwork may not be to everyone's taste - they are modern, abstract and slightly incongruous with the setting - but they are interesting and eye-catching, reflecting Waterkloof's wont to bring not just modernity and passion, but also a certain openness and transparency to their traditional methods.
- Waterkloof wine estate is located on Sir Lowry's Pass Village Road outside Somerset West.
To book, call 021 858 1292, or see www.waterkloofwines.co.za